Upper Egypt Expedition, March 1-12, 2001
by Michael Fuller and Neathery Fuller (Anthropology Dept. at SLCC)
St. Louis Community College Center
Film strips composed of numerous images taken by
Professors Michael Fuller, Neathery Fuller, and Ying Zuo.
Giza Pyramids and Sphinx images
The Persian Period temple of Hibis in the oasis of Kharga
Middle Kingdom tombs at Beni Hasan
Palace and decorated tombs at Amarna dating from 18th DYN
Images of Akenaton and Nefertiti from the Luxor and Cairo Museums
Temple of Seti I from the 19th DYN at Abydos
Mortuary temple to Queen Hatshepsut at Deir el Bahari; 18th DYN
Coptic Museum in Cairo
Gospel of Thomas
Gospel of Thomas
Adam and Eve
Adam, Eve & Apple
Embroidery
Embroidery detail
Illuminated manuscript showing Moses
Illuminated manuscript
Illuminated manuscript
Bagawat, a Christian cemetery in the Kharga Oasis, dates from the 2nd to 6th c. AD.
It is reported that 120 chapels were built at Bagawat. One tradition links to the chapels
to the followers of Nestorius, but it seems more likely that the oasis was an isolated
enclave of Christians that included both Orthodox and many forms of the heteordox.
Nestorius was born in Germanicia in the ruphrates district of the patriarchate of Antioch.
He was condemned at the Third Ecumenical Council in Ephesus in 431.
One tradition
(Moffett 1992 A History of Christianity in Asiapage 174) reports that Nestorius refused to attend.
A second tradition, reported in the Coptic Encyclopedia, maintains that Nestorius did
attend and behaved badly.
Cyril of Alexandria had placed the Gospels on the central chair of
the assembly and that Nestorius had cast the Gospels on the floor and seated himself in their place.
Did he do this? Is it a later slander?
The Council of Ephesus in 431 denounced Nestorius. He was first exiled to a monastery near
Antioch, but that did not silence his teachings. One tradition reported by Moffett was that
he was a gifted orator with a "beautiful voice and fluent phrases." He was then banished to Petra (in Jordan) and finally to the
Kharga Oasis (in Egypt). Each move took him to deeper isolation.
What was the basis of his theological conflict? One tradition is that he felt the Orthodox
overstressed Christ's divine nature over his humanity. He belonged to a tradition that stressed
care for the poor and hungry as a natural outgrowth of Christ's compassion for the less
fortunate.
He had built upon the teachings of Theodore of Mopsuestia (350-428), from noth of Antioch, who saw
sin as a weakness instead of a disease or tainted will.
He maintained a vision of Christ that saw a prosopic union of the divine and human. This was
a union where Jesus was only "a man indissolubly united to God through the permanent indwelling
of the Logos" [quote in Moffett, page 172].
Another way Nestorius explained this: "a union so close that the only analogy we can find is
the union in man of soul and body....As the reasonable soul and flesh is one man, so God and
man is one Christ."
Nestorius was accused of the heresy that portrayed Christ's death on the
cross as only the suffering of his human half. Likewise, Nestorius saw
Mary as the Mother of Jesus and
not the the Mother of the "Son of God."
Coptic Christians were opposed to Nestorius'
theology and one tradition describes an angry meeting between Shenute (a famous
Coptic Patriach) and Nestorius. Nestorius asked Shenute to distribute his goods to the
poor and Shenute asked Nestorius to acknowledge May as the Mother of God. Neither man
complied with the other's wish. In fact, Shenute is reported to have called an angel down to
beat Nestorius to death. These men had previously quarrelled in AD 431 at the Council
of Ephesus.
The oasis of Kharga was a dangerous place because it was exposed to raids
by the tribesmen from Nubia and Lybian. Whether the chapels truly reflect Nestorian art
and theology is a good question. Some predate Nestorius and others were built/decorated
after his time.
When and where did he die? He was moved to Panopolis (Akhmim) around AD 444, then was
deported to Elephantine Island, then returned to Panopolis. He was moved to a nearby fortress
(probably Psinblje "sherd heap"). Another order was given for deportation, but it is unclear
if it was carried out. He was alive as late as 451 when he would have been 70 years old
and probably did not live much past that age. Panopolis (Akhim) is due east of the Deir Sohag
in the Nile Valley and just upstream of Assiut. This needs to be explored for the grave of
Nestorius.
Little directly survives of Nestorius' writings... here a passage from
the Bazaar of Heracleides
which was not rediscovered until 1889:
Earth things have little interest for me.
I have died to the world and live for Him....
Farewell desert my friend...
and [farewell] exile, my mother,
who after my death shall keep my body until the resurrection...
As for Nestorius - let him be anathema!
And would God that all men by anathematizing me might attain to reconciliation with God...
HELP NEEDED: I want to relocate the grave of Nestorius. Here is another passage about his death
and burial from a historical document:
"Nestorius the herectic, who had been partriarch of Constantinople was buried in the city
of Ikhmim, after he had been in banishment there for seven years, in the year 543 [an
era since he was banished in 435 and died in 450 or 451].
Now when rain falls, it does not descend upon his tomb, because he was the cause of the Council
of Chalcedon." (Abu Salih writing in ca. 1208, The Churches and Monasteries of Egypt, page 239-240,
2001 reprint of English translation from 1895)
It was here (Ikhmim) that Nestorius died.
(Josiah Condor, Egypt, Nubia and Abyssinia published by J. Duncan in 1827, in footnote on page 54 - digitized version on books.google.com/books?id=_JZJAAAAIAAJ)
Nestorius was brought to Echmin (Shmin = Panopolis), where he died seven years later and was buried in a place called Saklan.
Aloys Grillmeier, theresia Hanthaler, and O. C. Dean. Christ in Christian Tradition: from the Council of Chalcedon (451 to
Gregory the Great (590 - 604) published in 1996 by Westminster John Knox Press, footnote 25 on page 177)
The other word in Turkic "sak" (e.g. saklan. (to hide [to be safe]), .... example the Egyptian words seem to show the morphology of Turkic words such as ...
aton.ttu.edu/pdf/Turk_Reduplication.pdf -
Desert road leading to the Kharga Oasis
Palms in the Kharga Oasis
Tombs and Chapels from a distance
Architecture of Chapels at Bagawat
Chapel plan
The Chapel of Peace, situated in the southwest corner of the necropolis, has
a rich decorated interior with painting styles reminiscent of the catacombs in Rome.
Identified in Greek are the names: Adam, Eve, Abraham, Issac, Eirene, Daniel,
Dikaiosyne, Euche, Jacob, Noah, the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, and Paul instructing
Saint Thekla.
Adam
Eve
Noah
Abraham
Annunciation of Mary
Paul
Eirene = Peace personified
Euche = Prayer personified
Christ as the Vine
Closeup of Vine
Chapel
Chapels
Neathery and Amira Fuller at Bagawat
The Chapel of the Exodus is considered one of the oldest decorated Christian buildings
at Bagawat. It takes its name from the paintings of Moses leading the Israelites from Egypt,
Moses in the Sinai, the Egyptian King and his army, Noah's Ark, Adam and Eve,
Daniel in the lion's den, Sadrach, Mishach, and Abednego in the furnace; the
sacrifices of Abraham, Jonah in the whale, Jonah out of the whale, Rebeca at the well,
Job in a chair, Job suffering, Susanna and Jeremian at the temple, Sara in prayer,
a shepherd, the martyrdom of Saint Thekla, seven virgins, and the Garden of Eden.
Plan of the Chapel of the Exodus
Moses before the burning bush in Sinai
Ankh style cross
A ba (pre-Christian Egyptian belief in a
spiritual element) rests upon the roof of a tomb while the Ankh sign resides within
The Christ cross as Ankh
Corinthian Style column painted on the chapel wall
Sadrach, Mishach and Abednego in the furnace
The Garden of Paradise/Eden
Noah's ark
Tests of Saint Thekla?
Website about St. Thekla
Seven virgins
Website concerning the tradition of the seven virgins
More examples of Chapels at Bagawat
The al-Gadid Antiquities Museum contains many important examples of Early Christian art:
Ankh Cross
Cross painted in a bowl
Ceramic Pilgrim flask showing St. Aboumina between
kneeling camels
Floral design
Coptic Gravestone
Coptic Gravestone
Virgin Mary & Jesus, 18th century
St. Demetrius & Maximus
Maximus was a Priest in Alexandria, Egypt.
Administered the see of Alexandria from 251 to 264 while its patriarch, Saint
Dionysius, was in exile. Bishop of Alexandria following Dionysius' death. Maximus
died in AD 282.
Angel embroidery
Pottery specimen
Stone rosette
Wood fluer de lis from Fatamid period,
11th century
Another ancient Christian tradition involves the martyr's grave in the center of
of Deir Sitt Demyanah (Monastery of Saint Demyanah) situated in the northern Delta of the Nile.
Demyanah was the daughter of a regional governor during the time of Diocletian (AD
284 to 305). She chose a life of celebacy and took refuge with 40 other virgins in a
palace built by her father. She was put to death and buried in a mass grave with 10
virgins at the feet, head, right, and left (forming a cross with Demianna in the center). A great festival
is held each year at the monastery from May 5 to 20. January 21st is also important
in the calendar of celebrations at the monastery. Pilgrims come to the monastery in hopes of being
healed, increased fertility, and comfort for the grief of a child's death.
GPS coordinates for the monastery are North 31 degrees 17.683' and East 31 degrees
23.400'. The archaeologists and students from St. Louis Community College were given
a wonderful feast by the sister of Deir Sitt Demyanah during our visit during Lent of
2001. Many nuns reside at the monastery. They allowed photography inside the monastery
but not of the sisters.
Grave of Demyanah and the 40 martyrs
Faint inscriptions on the grave
Cruciform pattern of lights
Raban DeoCescors?
Modern mosaic of Demyanah
Coptic woodwork
Coptic woodwork
Coptic woodwork
New Chapel to Saint Demyanah
Embroidered Angel in New Chapel
Madonna embroidery in New Chapel
Two Rabans at Demyanah
A Raban at Demyanah
Domes and crosses at Demyanah
Dome and Cross at Demyanah
Demyanah roofs
Demyanah Shadows
Fields belonging to the monastery
Gardens of the monastery
Gardens of the monastery
Lunch for SLCC in refectory
Another very important Coptic Monastery in Upper Egypt is Deir al-Moharrak (also transliterated
as Dayr al-Muharraqah). Considered to be a second Bethlehem on the part of Coptic Christians.
They maintain that the Holy Family stayed here for 6 months because the local people were very
kind to them. Later, the altar of the monastery's church was built exactly where the baby Jesus
had slept. This is also the tradition that this is the location where the Angel of God appeared
to Joseph (Matthew 2:20) and said "Arise, return to Israel."
Abouna Phlexinios served as our guide to the monastery. He noted that "anyone who comes
with a pure heart receives comfort in this place because it is where the Holy Family was
comforted. It is interesting that the Coptic Tradition reports that the Holy Family was
accompanied by a woman named Salome who had served as Mary's mid-wife.
Another tradition maintains that Jewus returned here and consercrated the altar of the monastery.
In 2001, the Church of St. Mary was being restored, but we did spend considerable time in a
later chapel dedicated to St. George. The monastery includes a tower structure with a chapel
of St. Michael in the upper portion.
The Sunday before Palm Sunday is a very population day for baptisms at the monastery. The current
population of the monastery is 110 monks and 100 to 200 dependents involved in the reconstructions
and farming activities sponsored by the monastery.
Mass being said in Church of St. George
Coptic Mass
Coptic Mass
Angel
Kimkim "Cymbals"
Kimkim
Embroidery
Embroidery
Forked Arm Cross
Hiakal
Hiakal
Lock in the tower
Mummy of Abouna Michael Boharri (d. 1923)
Painted hiakal curtain
Abouna Phlexinios
Rosette design
Rosette design
Rosette design
Tower drawbridge
SLCC students and faculty listen to an Egyptian
guide at Giza, 2001
Amira at Giza
Neathery at Giza
Inside the Great Pyramid, looking out...
Details on each day:
1 March
Depart from St. Louis at 5:30 PM for Mineapolis/Amsterdam/Cairo. Be at airport 2 hours in advance!!!
2 March
Arrive Cairo at midnight, meeting and assistance followed by transfer to
Sheraton Hotel (5 Star)
3 March
Travel by bus from Cairo to Mansura in the Delta. This is a famous site for
anyone from St. Louis Community College because it is the place where St. Louis
was captured and imprisoned during the Crusades!!! We will visit Father Rapheael
Farid Wassef at the church of St. Mary in Dikerness. We will visit Abanoob's
Church where the Holy Family stopped during their stay in Egypt. Might have a
chance to see one other site such as Damietta or Zagazig (ancient Bubastis)
Stay in
Sheraton Hotel (5 Star)
4 March
Full Day tour of Pyramids, Sphinx, Memphis, Sakkara. Explore the Great
Pyramid, chat with the ageless sphinx, etc.
Stay in
Sheraton Hotel (5 Star)
5 March
Go from Cairo to Minya by bus. Passing through the region
where Oxyrhynchus is located Overnight in Minya.
Stay in Etap Hotel (4 star = best available)
6 March
Visit Minya, proceed to Assiut, visit Amarna - the palace city and tombs
of King Akenaton.
Visit the White Monastery, Red Monastery, Deir ed-Ahdra, etc.
Stay in Assiut Hotel (3 star = best available)
7 March
Go to Luxor by bus, visit more
monasteries
, Abydos and
Denderah.
Visit the temples sacred to Osiris and Isis.
Overnight in Luxor. Stay in Etap Hotel (4 star)
8 March
Visit the East bank,
Luxor and
Karnak
Temples. Luxor Museum, Overnight Luxor.
Stay in Etap Hotel (4 star)
9 March
LONG day tour from Luxor to Kharga Oasis by bus.
Visit the Alwadi Algadeed Museum, Christian tombs at the Necropolis of
El-Baqawat, Early Christian Church, and Temple of
Hibis.
Overnight in Luxor.
Stay in Etap Hotel (4 star)
10 March
West Bank; late afternoon flight to Cairo followed by transfer to hotel.
Overnight in Cairo. Stay in
Sheraton Hotel (5 Star)
11 March
Full day tour. Egyptian Museum, Citadel, Old Cairo. SHOP! Overnight Cairo. Stay in
Sheraton Hotel (5 Star)
12 March
Transfer to airport for return flights to St. Louis which leave at 4:10 am and
travel Cairo/Amsterdam/Detroit/St. Louis and arrive at 4 PM